![]() ![]() I do this with every type of screw that I am going to run into hardwood if I have not provided a pilot hole (as when screwing into stiles during face frame assembly). I always prepare my screws by scraping their tips into paraffin wax (usually a large candle). I used to use the fine threaded screws for hardwoods and the coarser ones for softwoods, but because I seem to have a habit of running out of one or the other, I now stock the ones that are dual purpose (hard and softwoods) for use with both species. I order my screws from McFeely's but have used others with similar success. I mostly use birch, white pine, maple (soft and hard), poplar and occasionally hickory and red/white oak. I've used the Kreg jig system for pocket holes for several years as my primary frame assembly method. Of course, don't screw into end grain, either. ![]() Also, use a drill with a clutch and set the clutch so it slips prior to the wood splitting. On most hardwoods, make sure you are using the fine thread screws. S&G Specialty has designed a series of screws for pocket holes to overcome these and other problems. Splitting frames and breaking screws have not been uncommon. Speed that I'm driving the screw doesn't seem to be a factor, nor does wood type. I'm using a Kreg jig and a self-drilling, flat head pocket screw. I am having a problem with the stiles splitting as I screw the rails to them. I recently started using pocket screws to assemble my face frame stock.
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